Loch Sunart Camping trip with HCC

Day 1

I picked up Gordon from his house in Helensburgh, before driving the 100 miles to Resipole Farm Holiday Park, on Loch Sunart.  At Resipole Farm Holiday Park we met up with Al, who had set off earlier from Dumbarton and was already waiting for us at the slipway. After quickly loading our boats, getting changed and parking the cars, we set off on our adventure on Loch Sunart. It was now 11:45. The weather was damp and may have even been raining, not that it matters once you are wearing your dry suit. There was also a fair breeze and swell coming across the loch, so we decided to head to the far side of the loch, to its more sheltered side. The swell was up a bit, especially after we past Rubha Aird Earnaich, the point where the loch changes direction from a NW-SE to SW-NE. Strangely, the wind that was blowing into us at Resipole, changed direction so that it was still blowing at us. There were a few Artic Terns about, flying low to the sea, occasionally darting into the waves to grab a sand eel.

We hugged the shore for a few miles before making the crossing, back across the loch to Dun Ghallain for a spot of lunch. Dun Ghallain is an Iron Age fort and tidal island, with amazing views up and down Loch Sunart. Historically it was known as the "Fort of the Storms," with its secluded lagoon used by Vikings. You could see why, it is such a great strategic spot with its fabulous views up and down the loch, even if it is a little exposed. As for us, there were no Viking ships approaching, but we did spot a Sea Eagle being harassed by seagulls, crossing the loch.

After lunch we followed the lochs northern shore, before heading across to Carna. At the bottom of Oransay we looked at trying to pass through the narrows between the mainland and Oransay, but as the tide was out, we were met by a slippery seaweed covered boulder field. We decided to go around Oransay, in an anticlockwise direction. By choosing to circumnavigate Oransay in this direction, we hoped that the incoming tide would have risen sufficiently by the time we returned to the narrows, allowing us to pass through and complete our journey around the island. It was a good paddle around Oransay. By the time we arrived back at the narrows, there was plenty of water covering the slippery seaweed covered boulders, which allowed us to complete our lap of Oransay. The time now was 17:25; it was time to start looking at places to camp for the night.

Gordon had previously paddled and camped on Loch Sunart and knew of a good place to camp; just near the south east corner of Carna, on the mainland. So we headed around the bottom end of Carna, checking on route another possible camp site on Carna, before we moved on to the mainland camping area opposite. From what we had seen whilst paddling on the loch, level areas to camp were scarce, but this area was an excellent choice with plenty of good level ground for pitching tents on.

It was time to erect the tents and cook some grub. Gordons inner tent tried to make a break for freedom, blowing into the loch with Gordon running not far behind. Luckily, Gordon was able to grab the tent, before it sank into the loch. The midges were out in numbers and midge nets were donned.

We later had a little walk along the shoreline, with Gordon spotting an otter on the rocks, right in the middle of the channel.

13.2 nm 6 hours 15 min

Day 2

I woke up to the sound of heavy rain hitting the tent. Actually, when I first woke up I am pretty sure the sun was out, but I must have dozed off. By about 07:00 the rain had stopped sufficiently to venture out, boil some water for breakfast and pack up, before the next band of rain came in. Both Al and Gordon were not too far behind me and by 09:30 we were setting off. Except I soon realised my skeg was jammed. After quick fiddle on the shore I realised I could just about get it to work by forcing it. But it wasn't great. I have since learnt on returning home, the skeg jamming is quite a common problem with NDK boats. You must ensure your skeg is fully retracted before landing. Otherwise, the skeg wire kinks inside the skeg box; it is the kink in the wire which jams the skeg. I must have landed with my skeg deployed last night when we arrived at the camping spot. Doh!

I must admit I was a little surprised my Romany Surf had kinked its skeg wire. From what I can see, the skeg system design is very similar to the skeg design of Valley Kayaks, and yet on the Valley boats; and I've owned and I've paddled a few Valley boats -  Etain's, Nordkapp 40's, Sirona's and Gemini's, I have never encountered this issue. Putting pressure on the skeg of a Valley kayak just causes the skeg to retract and the cockpit slider to move, with no kinks. As I no longer own a Valley kayak I am unable to see what the difference is between the two systems. It would be great to find out.
Anyway, on arriving home and removing the skeg wire out of the Romany Surf, I could instantly see the kink in the skeg wire at the skeg box end. I did a quick search for skeg wire replacement and found Sea kayaking UK (NDK kayaks) sell 2.5m of 3mm skeg wire for £18.18 +  £6.60 shipping! I looked elsewhere and found Argyll Kayaks also sell 2.5 m of 7/19 3mm stainless steel skeg wire for £12.00 + £4.00 shipping. Hmmm...  That is quite a difference. But then doing a deeper search of the internet, I found I could buy 3mm marine grade (AISI 316) 7x19 stainless steel wire for £0.49 per meter from GS Products. So I bought 11 meters worth ie. four skeg wires (4 x 2.5m, plus a little extra, a meter, for just in case, so 11 meters). I spent all of £5.39 + £4.99 shipping. A lot less than buying elsewhere and to GS Products credit, the wire arrived the very next day. Making a comparison of the original skeg wire and the GS Products skeg wire there is no visible difference, and I suspect it is the same wire. If you do go down this route and buy the 3mm 7/19 AISI 316 Stainless Steel Wire from GS Products, I suggest, if you haven't already, invest in some steel cable cutters. Decent steel cable cutters will set you back around £20. As a once very keen cyclist, I am fortunate to already own some Shimano Steel Cable cutters. These cut the 3mm steel cable superbly. To keep the end of the wires from fraying, I applied some heat shrink tubing to the ends of the line. I guess you could apply some tape, to gain the same result. By doing this, it stopped the wire from not only fraying whilst making the cut, but also from fraying whilst pushing the wire into the plastic sleeve inside the boat. I now have a fully working skeg, along with some spare skeg cables in case I mess up and kink the wire again, which I think will be quite likely. There is a good video on YouTube for replacing the skeg wire on Sea Kayaking UK / NDK boats:  Sea Kayaking UK / NDK skeg wire replacement video.  Another top tip from the video, is you can also use 3mm round nylon gardeners strimmer line, which you can use as a temporary skeg fix. Useful and lightweight to carry in your repair kit, especially if you are out on expedition somewhere. I will be adding some to my repair kit along with a 2.5mm allen key.

Anyway, I digress...

Leaving the campsite we paddled against the ebbing flow into Loch Teacuis. I was surprised to see the houses in the loch and wondered how n'earth these properties were accessed. They look so remote. I cannot see Tescos delivering your groceries there, that is for sure. But I guess, if you like your isolation then this is a perfect spot. Leaving Loch Teacuis, we passed some seals on a rock and a moored yacht, whose occupants were probably still soundly asleep, before heading up past Carna and our previous nights camp site. I did a quick lap of Sgeir Liath, followed by a lap of Drocaid Charna for the Performance Sea Kayak 1000 Islands challenge. It was mid way circumnavigating Drocaid Charna I realised I had quite probably paddled around the island in the wrong direction. I had quite a flow to paddle against on the south of the island, for at least 80% of its length. If I had paddled the island the other way around, I would have had a nice push for 80% of the islands length. Oh well, never mind, keep paddling and catch up with the other two.
We headed across the loch, back to Dun Ghallaid for an early lunch. As the tide was approaching high water, I did a quick lap of the island; more points for the challenge, with Gordon not far behind me. I didn't realise Gordon was coming with me. Al sensibly declined the lap. On top of the dun, Al reckoned it would make a great bivvy spot, and started working out level places where people could sleep, by comically lying in different places all around the top of the Dun. By now there was a fair westerly wind, with a following swell. Back in the boats we paddled back to Resipole, pushed by the wind and swell, with occasional surfs on the waves. An otter welcomed us back to Resipole Farm Holiday Park, with it swimming just off the slipway. Brilliant!

All too soon we were back at the cars, packed up and heading for home.

11.1nm 5 hours 17 min

What a great weekend. Thank you Gordon for organising and Al, especially the wee dram of Bruichladdich. I will make sure I have something decent to reciprocate next time. Also, a big shout to Resipole Farm Holiday Park for allowing us to leave our vehicles on their land.

Fab!

Total 24.3 nm